Every Georgian town has its bazaar, but a Tbilisi market is where the whole country seems to meet: honey from the mountains, cheese from Imereti and Tusheti, chilli and salt from Svaneti, and walnuts by the sack.

Churchkhela, explained

The candle-shaped sweets hanging from every stall are churchkhela: walnuts or hazelnuts threaded on a string and dipped again and again in thickened grape juice, then dried. They keep for months, which is why families make them after the grape harvest.

The spice counter

Khmeli suneli is the all-purpose blend; utskho suneli — blue fenugreek — gives Georgian food its warm, nutty depth; and Svanetian salt mixes salt with garlic, coriander and chilli.

Guide’s tipAsk to smell before you buy. Good vendors expect it, and it is the quickest way to learn.